118-446: [REDACTED] = Day (before 6 p.m.) [REDACTED] = Evening (after 6 p.m.) = Bow tie colour [REDACTED] = Ladies [REDACTED] = Gentlemen Black tie is a semi-formal Western dress code for evening events, originating in British and North American conventions for attire in the 19th century. In British English , the dress code is often referred to synecdochically by its principal element for men,
236-423: A Hudson Valley enclave for New York 's social elite where it was often seen in its early years. The term was capitalized until the 1930s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket. When the jacket was later paired with its own unique trousers and accessories in the 1900s the term began to be associated with the entire suit. Sometimes it is shortened to "tux" . In a number of European and other languages
354-402: A cummerbund , and black patent leather dress shoes or court pumps . Accessories may include a semi-formal homburg , bowler , or boater hat . For women, an evening gown or other fashionable evening attire may be worn. The first dinner jacket is traditionally traced to 1865 on the then Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII (1841–1910). The late 19th century saw gradual introduction of
472-660: A high-tech competitor to regions such as Silicon Valley and Boston , it has since grown to represent the counties in New York between IBM 's Westchester County plants in the south and the Canada–US border to the north. The area's high technology ecosystem is supported by technologically focused academic institutions including Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and the State University of New York Polytechnic Institute . Tech Valley encompasses 19 counties straddling both sides of
590-430: A piqué shirt with a detachable wing collar and single cuffs such as is worn with white tie was used, and in the 1960s and 1970s ruffled bibs were popular, but have since become uncommon. The wing collar originally disappeared in black tie after the 1920s when the appropriately semi-formal attached turndown collar shirt became preferred, but it has been popular with American men in a less substantial, attached form since
708-549: A semi-formal evening wear, while the evening tailcoat was limited to the most formal or ceremonial occasions. During this interwar period, double-breasted jackets, turndown-collar shirts and cummerbunds became popular for black tie evenings as white jackets were experimented with in warm weather. Since then, black tie is often referred to as being semi-formal. In the decades following the World War II , black tie became special occasion attire rather than standard evening wear. In
826-540: A black tie ensemble. Either a low cut waistcoat or cummerbund may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the English authority Debrett's consider that wearing a waistcoat is smart, they no longer consider either waist covering to be essential. The American authority, The Emily Post Institute , considers them to be an essential component of proper black tie attire. Waist coverings are not matched to wedding theme colours. A low cut waistcoat should be worn when wearing
944-412: A burgeoning biotechnology sector in the 21st century, with over US$ 1 billion in planned private investment as of 2016, earning the county the nickname Biochester . The Hudson River Valley National Heritage Area promotes historic, natural, and cultural sites in 11 counties. The Hudson Valley is divided into three regions: Upper, Middle, and Lower. The following is a list of the counties within
1062-454: A fad. By the 1970s, mass-market retailers began offering white and coloured versions of the entire suit to its rental customers. The 1980s vogue for nostalgic and retro styles returned evening wear to its black tone. Notch lapels returned for good in the 1980s, and in the 1990s dinner jackets increasingly took on other traits of the business suit, such as two- and three-button styling, flap pockets, and centre vents. These trends have continued into
1180-954: A freeway in much of Orange County and will be designated Interstate 86 in the future. Hudson River crossings in the Hudson Valley region from south to north include the Tappan Zee Bridge between South Nyack in Rockland County and Tarrytown in Westchester County, the Bear Mountain Bridge between Peekskill in Westchester County and Fort Montgomery in Orange County, the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge between Newburgh in Orange County and Beacon in Dutchess County,
1298-827: A full dress shirt is worn in this fashion, it is accompanied by the white marcella waistcoat ordinarily associated with white tie. Wearing white tie accessories in this manner is considered by many to be an affectation. Debrett's do not endorse the wing collar as being compatible with the black tie dress code. The more formal marcella version of the shirt fastens with matching shirt studs. These are most commonly in silver or gold settings, featuring onyx or mother-of-pearl; various geometrical shapes are worn, e.g., circles, which are most common for studs, octagons, or rectangles, which are most common for cufflinks. There has been no consistent fashion preference for gold or silver, but studs with mother-of-pearl are more formal and therefore often associated with white tie. The soft-front pleated version of
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#17328760547341416-696: A fusty adherence to a contrarian point of view. The bow tie hints at intellectualism , real or feigned, and sometimes suggests technical acumen, perhaps because it is so hard to tie. Bow ties are worn by magicians, country doctors, lawyers and professors and by people hoping to look like the above. But perhaps most of all, wearing a bow tie is a way of broadcasting an aggressive lack of concern for what other people think. Popular perception tends to associate bow tie wearers with particular professions , such as architects, debt collectors, attorneys, university professors, teachers, waiters, and politicians. Pediatricians frequently wear bow ties, for infants cannot grab them
1534-452: A large proportion of the agricultural output. Meanwhile, land west of Hudson River contained smaller landholdings with many small farmers living off the land. A large crop grown in the region was grain, which was largely shipped downriver to New York City, the colony's main seaport, for export back to Great Britain. In order to export the grain, colonial merchants were given monopolies to grind the grain into flour and export it. Grain production
1652-508: A mixture of fabrics. Some fabrics (e.g., wool or velvet) are much less common for bow ties than for ordinary four-in-hand neckties. The bow tie originated among Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War of the 17th century: the Croat mercenaries used a scarf around the neck to hold together the opening of their shirts. This was soon adopted (under the name cravat , derived from
1770-543: A much wider level of formality ranging from just below the white tie standard to something more informal such as a little black dress . Specifically it can also include: Still, while "black tie" dress code traditionally implies evening dress for women, in 1966 famous couturier Yves Saint Laurent proposed Le Smoking , a dinner suit designed for women. Most initial reactions to the collection were negative. The designer took bits and pieces from both men's suit and women's clothing and combined it with new ideas. As this dinner suit
1888-401: A pleated bib, and are better suited to the more formal single-breasted peak lapel jacket. They may feature a bib that is either marcella or starched and include stiff single cuffs secured with cufflinks, made of the same fabric as the bib; this type of shirt is exactly the same as one worn with white tie attire. The collar in this case is tall and stiff, which may be attached or detachable. When
2006-452: A potential comeback among men, though "the class conscious man recoils at the idea" of pre-tied bow ties and "[l]eft-wingers ... recoil at what they perceive to be a symbol of political conservatism." He argues that anachronism is the point, and that bow tie wearers are making a public statement of their disdain for changing fashion. Such people may not be economic conservatives, he argues, but they are social conservatives. In Smith's view,
2124-623: A relaxation of previous strict standards; midnight blue once again became popular and lapel facings were sometimes reduced to wide edging. The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and fall of 1886 and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style. The most famous reference originates from Tuxedo Park , an upstate New York countryside enclave for Manhattan's wealthiest citizens. A son of one of
2242-427: A resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl-shaped, in either case they are to have facings of silk , satin or grosgrain". She later republished this statement in her 1922 book Etiquette , adding that only single-breasted jackets are appropriately called tuxedos . There is a fashion movement suggesting that a man's appearance when wearing the wider and higher peak lapel
2360-497: A single-breasted coat. The waistcoat plays an important part in black tie's refined minimalism by helping to conceal its working parts by discreetly covering the trousers' exposed waistband and the shirt bosom's bottom edge. Waistcoats come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double- or single-breasted, with or without lapels. Single-breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double-breasted ones three or four rows. Before World War II, while black tie
2478-416: A specific size neck. Sizes can vary between approximately 14 inches (36 cm) and 19 inches (48 cm) as with a comparable shirt collar. Fixed-length bow ties are preferred when worn with the most formal wing-collar shirts, so as not to expose the buckle or clasp of an adjustable bow tie. Adjustable bow ties are the standard when the tie is to be worn with a less formal, lie-down collar shirt that obscures
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#17328760547342596-420: A traditional choice. Handkerchief : A handkerchief in linen traditionally, or silk, or cotton is usually worn in the breast pocket. Although precedents for tasteful exceptions exist, pocket squares are normally white, and may not match the waist covering or bow tie. Boutonnière : A flower may be worn. Red and white carnation , blue cornflower , and rosebud have all been popular at times. In France ,
2714-401: Is a type of necktie . A modern bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot , which is also called the bow knot for that reason. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar of a shirt in a symmetrical manner so that the two opposite ends form loops. There are generally three types of bow ties: the pre-tied, the clip-on, and the self-tie. Pre-tied bow ties are ties in which
2832-473: Is considered more formal, whilst the centre vent is the least formal. The lapels, traditionally pointed and shawl, are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave, but can also be silk barathea . A notched lapel is usually considered more appropriate for a business suit than a dinner jacket but is commonly seen on inexpensive off the rack dinner jackets. According to the Black Tie Guide,
2950-422: Is equally correct. It looks especially well with a shawl collar dinner jacket but may be worn in conjunction with peak lapels. The material of the cummerbund should be silk satin, grosgrain, also called faille, or barathea to match that of the bow tie. It features upward-facing folds, which were originally used to store theatre or opera tickets, and are now considered to be more decorative than functional. Just like
3068-655: Is home to the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest, hosted at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds. The region has sunlight, moisture, chalky soil, and drainage conducive to grape growing, especially grapes used in Champagne. Tech Valley is a marketing name for the eastern part of New York State, including the Hudson Valley and the Capital District . Originating in 1998 to promote the greater Albany area as
3186-440: Is more popular. When a waistcoat has lapels, they are faced in the same silk as those of the jacket; in this case it is considered more refined if the body is made from the same fabric as the jacket. The buttons may be self-faced or covered in the same silk as the lapels. Vintage waistcoats were sometimes closed with studs made from onyx or mother-of-pearl , which were often surrounded by a setting of silver or gold . A waistcoat
3304-404: Is never worn with a double-breasted jacket. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered, though before World War II an edge of the waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt. A cummerbund may be worn with a dinner jacket in lieu of a waistcoat and, although it is considered slightly less formal, it
3422-404: Is not supposed to be considered a priority. Pocket watches are acceptable. Women's dress for black tie occasions has varied greatly throughout the years; traditionally it was: Other fashionable evening attire may be worn. Unlike the men's standard, the specifics of black tie for women are linked to whatever evening wear is currently in fashion. Today ladies' dress for black tie occasions covers
3540-473: Is one of the oldest winemaking and grape-growing regions in the United States, with its first vineyards planted in 1677 in current-day New Paltz . The region has experienced a resurgence in winemaking in the 21st century. Many wineries are located in the Hudson Valley, offering wine-tasting and other tours. Numerous wine festivals are held in the Hudson Valley, with themes often varying by season. Rhinebeck
3658-405: Is superior to the narrower notch lapel. White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are ivory in colour rather than pure white, and have self-faced lapels, i.e., made of the same fabric as the jacket, rather than silk-faced lapels. They are generally worn with the same types of shirts and accessories as black dinner jackets, though the turndown collar and cummerbund are preferred to
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3776-460: Is the black lace-up Oxford shoe , in patent leather or calfskin , with a rounded plain toe. Brogueing or any other decorative patterns should never be seen on black tie footwear. Matte finish pumps are also seen. Shoes are almost invariably black and patent leather is considered more formal than matte finishes while pumps are considered more formal than lace-ups . Generally considered too informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing , such as
3894-564: Is visually similar to a cufflink; this traditional method of closure is common in the United Kingdom. The double-besomed jetted or slit hip pocket is the only style understated enough to complement the dinner jacket. Flap pockets are not considered appropriate for formal attire's refined minimalism due to their busier and bulkier design, and some believe that they are simply an attempt by dinner jacket manufacturers to save money by using standard suit patterns, although sometimes they will trim
4012-451: Is worn for dinner parties (public, fraternities , private) and sometimes even to balls and weddings , although etiquette experts discourage wearing of black tie for weddings. Traditional semi-formal day wear equivalent is black lounge suit . Supplementary semi-formal alternatives may be accepted for black tie: mess dress uniform , religious clothing (such as cassock ), folk costumes (such as highland dress ), etc. Dinner jacket in
4130-779: The Adirondack Northway and the New York Thruway , and with heavy state taxpayer subsidy , has experienced significant growth in the computer hardware industry, with great strides in the nanotechnology sector, digital electronics design, and water- and electricity-dependent integrated microchip circuit manufacturing, involving companies including IBM in Armonk and its Thomas J. Watson Research Center in Yorktown , GlobalFoundries in Malta , and others. Westchester County has developed
4248-611: The Bee-Line Bus System in Westchester County and Transport of Rockland in Rockland County. The Hudson Valley is served by two airports with commercial airline service: Westchester County Airport (HPN) near White Plains and Stewart International Airport (SWF) near Newburgh . Commuter rail service in the region is provided by Metro-North Railroad (operated by the Metropolitan Transportation Authority ). Metro-North operates three rail lines east of
4366-619: The British Royal Family 's informal country estate . Henry Poole never saw his design become known as a dinner jacket or cross the Atlantic and be called a tuxedo over there; he died in 1876 leaving behind a well-respected business to be run by his cousin Samuel Cundey. Other accounts of the Prince's experimentation appear around 1885, referring variously to "a garment of many colours, such as
4484-550: The Derby shoe , called bluchers in American English. Notable alternatives include the black button boot, primarily of historical interest only, and the monogrammed Albert slipper which was originally worn only at home. Hosiery is black socks made from fine wool or silk. Most etiquette and fashion guides of the current decade recommend keeping colour touches and favouring a single colour, usually dark; muted reds, such as maroon, are
4602-461: The Edwardian era , the practice of wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the convention, establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes. The dinner jacket was also increasingly accepted at less formal evening occasions such as warm-weather gatherings or intimate dinners with friends. After World War I , the dinner jacket became established as
4720-500: The French for " Croat ") by the upper classes in France, then a leader in fashion , and flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is uncertain whether the cravat then evolved into the bow tie and four-in-hand necktie , or whether the cravat gave rise to the bow tie, which in turn led to the four-in-hand necktie. The most traditional bow ties are usually of a fixed length and are made for
4838-571: The Last Night of the Proms , in the United Kingdom. In tropical climates, such as in Imperial Burma, the desert fawn was historically used as the less formal colour. At one time, the civilian mess jacket was also an option in warmer climates. It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man of
Black tie - Misplaced Pages Continue
4956-869: The Mid-Hudson Bridge between Poughkeepsie in Dutchess County and Highland in Ulster County, the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge between Rhinecliff in Dutchess County and Kingston in Ulster County, and the Rip Van Winkle Bridge between Hudson in Columbia County and Catskill in Greene County. The Walkway Over the Hudson is a pedestrian bridge which parallels the Mid-Hudson Bridge and
5074-694: The New York Yankees . The team is a member of the Mid-Atlantic League and plays at Dutchess Stadium in Fishkill . The New York Boulders of the independent Can-Am League play at Clover Stadium , in Pomona, NY. Kingston Stockade FC is a soccer team representing the Hudson Valley in the National Premier Soccer League (NPSL), a national semi-professional league at the fourth tier of
5192-599: The Pascack Valley Line (serving central Rockland County) and the Port Jervis Line (serving western Rockland County and Orange County). Amtrak serves Yonkers , Croton-Harmon , Poughkeepsie , Rhinecliff-Kingston , and Hudson along the eastern shores of the Hudson River, as well as New Rochelle in southeastern Westchester County. The Hudson Valley Renegades is a minor league baseball team affiliated with
5310-453: The dinner suit or dinner jacket . In American English , the equivalent term tuxedo (or tux ) is common. The dinner suit is a black, midnight blue or white two- or three-piece suit , distinguished by satin or grosgrain jacket lapels and similar stripes along the outseam of the trousers . It is worn with a white dress shirt with standing or turndown collar and link cuffs , a black bow tie , typically an evening waistcoat or
5428-426: The lounge jacket without tails as a less formal and more comfortable leisure alternative to the frock coat . Similarly, the shorter dinner jacket evolved as a less formal alternative to the dress coat out of the informal smoking jacket , itself derived from the banyan . Thus in many non-English languages, a dinner jacket is still known as the false friend "smoking". In American English , its synonym "tuxedo"
5546-413: The royal family or the guest of honour may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather, Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain expatriate communities. Traditionally, the only neckwear appropriate is the black bow tie that is a self-tie and it always matches the lapel facing of
5664-507: The "bat wing", which is parallel-sided like a cricket bat , and the "thistle", also known as the "butterfly". An example of each can also be seen below. Which is worn is a matter of personal preference. Some other shapes do exist; for instance, the Diamond Point, with pointed tips at both ends. This is a double-ended type, with both ends shaped, though occasionally, ties are tied in the single-ended type, in which only one end flares out to give
5782-442: The 1950s, some experimented with coloured and patterned jackets, cummerbunds and bow ties. The 1960s and 1970s saw the colour palette move from muted to bright day-glow and pastel, as well as ruffled-placket shirts as lapels got wider and piping was revived. The 1980s and 1990s saw a return to traditional styles, with black jackets and trousers again becoming nearly universal. Some insist the 21st century has seen increased variation and
5900-484: The 1980s. However, many style authorities argue that the wing collar should remain the domain of white tie for aesthetic reasons. Etiquette maven Miss Manners is one of those who feel that while the bow tie's uncovered band is fine in a white-on-white scheme, "gentlemen with their black ties exposed all-around their necks look silly". Although some style authorities consider the wing collar to be an acceptable option for black tie shirts, they are not worn with double cuffs or
6018-534: The British, under General John Burgoyne 's strategy, would be able to cut off the patriot hub of New England (which is on the eastern side of the Hudson River) and focus on rallying the support of loyalists in the South and Mid-Atlantic regions. The British knew that total occupation of the colonies would be unfeasible, which is why this strategy was chosen. As a result of the strategy, numerous battles were fought along
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#17328760547346136-673: The Hudson River to Grand Central Terminal in Manhattan, from east to west they are the New Haven Line (serving southeast Westchester County), the Harlem Line (serving Central and Eastern Westchester, Putnam, and Dutchess Counties), and the Hudson Line (serving western Westchester, Putnam, and Dutchess Counties). West of the Hudson, New Jersey Transit operates two lines rail service under contract with Metro-North Railroad to Hoboken Terminal :
6254-567: The Hudson River was not the Northwest Passage , the Dutch began to examine the region for potential trading opportunities. Dutch explorer and merchant Adriaen Block led voyages there between 1611 and 1614, which led the Dutch to determine that fur trade would be profitable in the region. As such, the Dutch established the colony of New Netherland . The Dutch settled three major fur-trading outposts in
6372-427: The Hudson Valley became an agricultural hub, with manors being developed on the east side of the river. At these manors, landlords rented out land to their tenants, letting them take a share of the crops grown while keeping and selling the rest of the crops. Tenants were often kept at a subsistence level so that the landlord could minimize his costs. Landlords held immense political power in the colony due to driving such
6490-545: The Hudson Valley began to lead the farm-to-table movement , the local food movement , and sustainable agricultural practices . The fertile Black Dirt Region of the Wallkill and Schoharie valleys also began to be farmed. Dairy farms are predominant, though fruit, vegetable, poultry, meat, and maple syrup production are also common. Orchard cultivation is common in Orange, Ulster, Dutchess, and Columbia counties. The Hudson Valley
6608-559: The Hudson Valley fall within the Eastern Great Lakes and Hudson Lowlands Ecoregion . During the last ice age, the valley was filled by a large glacier that pushed south as far as Long Island . Near the end of the last ice age, the Great Lakes drained south down the Hudson River, from a large glacial lake called Lake Iroquois . Lake Ontario is the remnant of that lake. Large sand deposits remain from where Lake Iroquois drained into
6726-835: The Hudson Valley sorted by region. The Lower Hudson Valley is typically considered part of the Downstate New York region due to its geographical and cultural proximity to New York City . Lower Hudson Mid-Hudson Upper Hudson/ Capital District Major interstates in the Hudson Valley include Interstate 87 (part of the New York State Thruway ), a small section of Interstate 95 in Southeastern Westchester County, Interstate 287 serving Westchester and Rockland Counties, Interstate 84 serving Putnam, Dutchess, and Orange Counties, and Interstate 684 serving Westchester and Putnam Counties. parkways in
6844-677: The Hudson Valley. In 1609, the Dutch East India Company financed English navigator Henry Hudson in his attempt to search for the Northwest Passage . During this attempt, Henry Hudson decided to sail his ship up the river that would later be named after him. As he continued up the river, its width expanded, into Haverstraw Bay, leading him to believe he had successfully reached the Northwest Passage. He also proceeded upstream as far as present-day Troy before concluding that no such strait existed there. After Henry Hudson realized that
6962-564: The Hudson; these are now part of the Rome Sand Plains . Due to its resemblance, the Hudson River often has been described as "America's Rhine". In 1939, the magazine Life described the river as such, comparing it to the 40-mile (64 km) stretch of the Rhine in Central and Western Europe. The Hudson Valley has a long agricultural history and agriculture was its main industry when the region
7080-596: The Tuxedo Park archives attributes the jacket's importation to America to resident James Brown Potter, a merchant banker who had worked in London for Brown Brothers . However, this claim for Potter cannot be verified through independent sources. Period newspaper accounts indicate that at first the jacket was worn by young mavericks to gatherings considered strictly formal. This led the American establishment to reject it out of hand. It
7198-552: The Wappingers lived from Manhattan Island up to Poughkeepsie . They lived a similar lifestyle to the Lenape, residing in various villages along the river. They traded with both the Lenape to the south and the Mahicans to the north. The Mahicans lived in the northern valley from present-day Kingston to Lake Champlain , with their capital located near present-day Albany . The Algonquins in
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#17328760547347316-440: The batwing or thistle shape, and the other remains thin. To tie one of these requires careful consideration, to ensure the broader end finishes in front of the thinner one. Shown below on the right is one style of pre-tie/ready-tie bow tie. Wearing a ready-tied bow tie at formal occasions requiring a black or white tie dress code is usually considered a faux pas , though at occasions such as Schools Leavers' Proms or ones at which
7434-488: The boutonnière is usually a gardenia . Outerwear : Black tie events do not involve outerwear and coats and gloves are no longer considered part of the dress code. However, etiquette for what to wear in public in transit to and from black tie occasions was stiffer in earlier eras and remain an option: Matching overcoats are usually black, charcoal , or dark blue , and traditionally of the Chesterfield style. A guards coat
7552-568: The bow tie is "the embodiment of propriety", an indicator of fastidiousness, and "an instant sign of nerddom in Hollywood movies", but "not the mark of a ladies' man" and "not exactly sexy". He attributes the building of this image to the association of the bow tie with newspaper editors (because of their fastidiousness with words), high-school principals, and bachelor English teachers. Most men, he observes, only wear bow ties with formal dress. There are usually two shapes of self-the bow ties available:
7670-417: The bow tie must remain black in any case. Some higher quality models feature a hidden pocket and an elastic loop to fasten to the trousers. Dress shirts designed to be worn with black tie are sometimes called "tuxedo shirts" in American English. Traditionally, the shirt is white, has a bibbed front that is either marcella or pleated, a turndown collar, and double, or "french" cuffs. In the early-20th century,
7788-648: The building of the Erie Canal , the area became an important industrial center. The canal opened the Hudson Valley and New York City to commerce with the Midwest and Great Lakes regions. However, in the mid 20th century, many of the industrial towns went into decline. The first railroad in New York, the Mohawk and Hudson Railroad , opened in 1831 between Albany and Schenectady on the Mohawk River, enabling passengers to bypass
7906-414: The colony, along the river, south to north: New Amsterdam , Wiltwyck , and Fort Orange . New Amsterdam later became known as New York City , Wiltwyck became Kingston , and Fort Orange became Albany . In 1664, the British invaded New Netherland via the port of New Amsterdam. New Amsterdam and New Netherland as a whole were surrendered to the British and renamed New York. Under British colonial rule,
8024-465: The community's founders, Griswold Lorillard, and his friends were widely reported in society columns for showing up at the club's first Autumn Ball in October 1886 wearing "a tailless dress coat". Although it is not known whether this garment was a mess jacket or a conventional dinner jacket, it has no doubt cemented the tailcoat substitute's association with Tuxedo Park in the mind of the public. An essay in
8142-406: The context of menswear first appeared in the United Kingdom around 1887 and in the United States around 1889. In the 1960s it became associated in the United States with white or coloured jackets specifically. In modern British English, dinner jacket may be abbreviated to simply DJ . Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the United States around 1888. It was named after Tuxedo Park ,
8260-569: The corporate world, donning very conservative tailored suits, with a rise of almost 6 million units in sales. These were often worn with buttoned-up blouses, some with pleats up the front like tuxedo shirts, and accessorized with bow ties that were slightly fuller than the standard bow ties worn by their male counterparts, but typically consisting of the same fabrics, colors, and patterns as men's ties. Russell Smith , style columnist for Toronto's The Globe and Mail , records mixed opinions of bow tie wearers. He observed that bow ties were experiencing
8378-472: The cuff and are connected by a chain or link of metal; this model conceals the mechanism by which the cuff is secured. The most common, and least decorative, are the swivel bar type; whilst these are acceptable, they leave the inner side of the cuffs and mechanism exposed which is incongruous with formal dress. The most formal and traditional shoes are patent leather opera pumps, also called court shoes , decorated with grosgrain bows. The more popular alternative
8496-571: The dinner jacket and braiding of the trouser seams. The bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot , which is also called the bow knot for that reason. Black tie trousers traditionally have no turn-ups , also called cuffs in American English , or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single braid of silk or a material that matches or complements the lapel facing. Traditionally, braces , called suspenders in US English, hidden by
8614-448: The distinctive bow is sewn onto a band that goes around the neck and clips to secure. Some "clip-ons" dispense with the band altogether, instead clipping straight to the collar. The traditional bow tie, consisting of a strip of cloth that the wearer has to tie by hand, is also known as a "self-tie", "tie-it-yourself", or "freestyle" bow tie. Bow ties may be made of any fabric material, but most are made from silk , polyester , cotton , or
8732-479: The early 21st century, and midnight blue is now once again a popular alternative. The dinner suit's accompaniments have also evolved over time. The most traditional interpretations of these elements — dress shirt , low cut waistcoat (in the "V" or "U" shape), black bow tie, oxford dress shoes — are incorporated in the black tie dress code. Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black tie ensembles can display more variation. More extensively,
8850-456: The edges of a flap pocket so that the flap can be tucked in or removed if desired. Besom welts can be of self fabric or trimmed with the lapel's silk facing, though classic menswear scholar Nicholas Antongiavanni suggests that for the English this latter touch "is a sure sign of hired clothes". The dinner jacket also has a welt breast pocket to hold a pocket handkerchief , which is generally self-faced rather than covered with silk. Emily Post ,
8968-460: The formal evening tailcoat , then known as a "dress coat", worn every evening. The earliest record of a tailless coat being worn with evening wear is an 1865 midnight blue smoking jacket in silk with matching trousers ordered by the Prince of Wales , later Edward VII of the United Kingdom, from Savile Row tailors Henry Poole & Co. The smoking jacket was tailored for use at Sandringham ,
9086-650: The interior of the Northeast to the coast. Hundreds of factories were built around the Hudson, in towns including Poughkeepsie, Newburgh, Kingston, and Hudson. The North Tarrytown Assembly (later owned by General Motors ), on the river in Sleepy Hollow, was a large and notable example. The river links to the Erie Canal and the Great Lakes, which allowed manufacturers in the Midwest, including automobile factories in Detroit, to use
9204-418: The jacket they were of the same material. Edwardian dandies often opted for Oxford grey or a very dark blue for their evening wear. By World War I, the grey option had fallen out of favour but the "midnight blue" alternative became increasingly popular and rivalled black by the mid-1930s. Notch lapels, imported from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the 1920s. A single stripe of braid covering
9322-497: The late 1800s, most farms transitioned from tenant farming to being family-owned, with more incentive to improve the land. Grain production moved west to the Genesee Valley , and so Hudson Valley farms specialized, especially in viticulture , berries, and orchard cultivation. Agriculture began to decline in the 19th century, and rapidly declined in the 20th century. By the 1970s, the United States' culinary revolution began, and
9440-407: The left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organizational regulations. Unlike in white tie, where decorations are always permitted, the dress code will usually give some indication when decorations are to be worn with black tie. Timepiece : Traditionally visible timepieces are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping
9558-410: The most appropriate and traditional for the dinner jacket are wool barathea or superfine herringbone . Double-breasted models have become less common, but are generally considered equally appropriate for most black tie occasions. Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before World War I, but in the 21st century come ventless, with side vents , or, less commonly, with centre vents . The ventless style
9676-578: The neck but clips to the collar points. Hudson Valley The Hudson Valley (also known as the Hudson River Valley ) comprises the valley of the Hudson River and its adjacent communities in the U.S. state of New York . The region stretches from the Capital District including Albany and Troy south to Yonkers in Westchester County , bordering New York City . The Hudson Valley
9794-402: The neckband of the tie. "One-size-fits-all" adjustable bow ties are a later invention that helps to moderate production costs. The lavallière is a type of cravat similar to the bow tie that was popularly worn in the 19th century in France. It is of a similar fashion to the bow tie but has a larger knot and drooping ends. To its devotees, the bow tie suggests iconoclasm of an Old World sort,
9912-457: The option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power. Fashion photography echoes the influence of this suit in shoots that feature androgynous models with slicked-back hair in a mannish three-piece suit, a style that was first popularized in photographs by Helmut Newton . This suit has continued to influence fashion designers' collections through the 2000s. Bow tie The bow tie or dicky bow / b oʊ /
10030-406: The outseam on each leg was an occasional variation at first but became standard by the 1930s. At this time double-breasted jackets and white jackets became popular for wear in hot weather. Colour, texture and pattern became increasingly popular in warm-weather jackets in the 1950s. In the 1960s, these variations became increasingly common regardless of season or climate. Notch lapels were once again
10148-551: The paintings of the Hudson River School were especially attracted to the region. The Hudson River valley runs primarily north to south down the eastern edge of New York State, cutting through a series of rock types including Triassic sandstones and redbeds in the south and much more ancient Precambrian gneiss in the north (and east). In the Hudson Highlands, the river enters a fjord cut during previous ice ages. To
10266-510: The participants are unlikely to have had much experience wearing bow ties, it may be commonplace. As shown in the pictures below, another type of ready-tie bow tie is the wooden bow tie , a fairly new product made mostly in the U.S and Canada. Other materials are also in use. An example would be bow ties that are made of natural bird feathers; this too is a fairly new product made mostly in the U.S. and Europe (in Poland). A clip-on does not go around
10384-408: The peaked lapel and shawl collar are equally authentic and correct, with the latter being slightly less formal. The buttons are covered in similarly coloured material to the main part of the jacket, which would typically be either self-faced or covered with the same material as the lapels. Some higher-end single-breasted jackets, both new and vintage, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which
10502-889: The region include the Bronx River Parkway , the Cross County Parkway , the Hutchinson River Parkway , the Sprain Brook Parkway , and the Saw Mill River Parkway serving solely Westchester County, the Taconic State Parkway serving Westchester, Putnam, Dutchess, and Columbia Counties, and the Palisades Interstate Parkway serving Rockland and a very small portion of southwestern Orange County. New York State Route 17 operates as
10620-633: The region lived mainly in small clans and villages throughout the area. One major fortress was called Navish, which was located at Croton Point , overlooking the Hudson River. Other fortresses were located in various locations throughout the Hudson Highlands . In 1497, John Cabot traveled along the coast and claimed the entire country for England; he is credited with the Old World 's discovery of continental North America. Between then and about 1609, exploration took place around New York Bay , but not into
10738-464: The river for transport. With industrialization came new technologies, such as streamboats, for faster transport. In 1807, the North River Steamboat (later known as Clermont), became the first commercially successful steamboat. It carried passengers between New York City and Albany along the Hudson River. At the end of the 19th century, the Hudson River region of New York State would become
10856-528: The river, including several in the Hudson Valley. In the early 19th century, popularized by the stories of Washington Irving , the Hudson Valley gained a reputation as a somewhat gothic region characterized by remnants of the early days of the Dutch colonization of New York (see " The Legend of Sleepy Hollow "). The area is also associated with the Hudson River School , a group of American Romantic painters who worked from about 1830 to 1870. Following
10974-419: The shirt should be fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons, typically supplied with the shirt on a separate strip of fabric. Alternatively, a fly-front shirt, appropriate with both the marcella and pleated bibs, conceals the placket for a more minimalistic look. There are several types of cufflinks that may be worn with black tie. The most formal and decorative are the double-panel type, which dress both sides of
11092-426: The slowest part of the Erie Canal. The Hudson Valley proved attractive for railroads once technology progressed to the point where it was feasible to construct the required bridges over tributaries. The Troy and Greenbush Railroad was chartered in 1845 and opened that same year, running a short distance on the east side between Troy and Greenbush, now known as East Greenbush (east of Albany). The Hudson River Railroad
11210-444: The sort of food thought to be served at black tie dinners. In the 1860s, the increasing popularity of outdoor activities among the middle and upper classes of the UK led to a corresponding increase in the popularity of the then casual lounge suit as a country alternative to the more formal day wear frock coat that was traditionally worn in town. Men also sought a similar alternative to
11328-406: The style is referred to by the pseudo-anglicism smoking . This generic colloquialism comes from its similarity to the 19th century smoking jacket . In French the dress code may also be called "cravate noire", a term that is sometimes adopted directly into English. The suit with accompanying accessories is sometimes nicknamed a monkey suit and, since 1918, soup and fish – a term derived from
11446-413: The traditional components for men are: The original and most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model. The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with jetted, or besom, pockets and is of black or midnight blue; usually of wool or a wool- mohair , or wool- polyester blend, although other materials, especially silk, are seen. Although other materials are used,
11564-403: The waistcoat, are used to support the trousers. Belts are never worn with black tie trousers. Evening trousers may be flat-fronted or pleated, with pleats first coming into fashion in the 1930s. Whilst flat-fronted trousers have become more fashionable, pleated trousers may be considered more comfortable by men who have wider hips and a narrow waist. A waist covering is generally worn as part of
11682-486: The waistcoat, cummerbunds are not worn with a double-breasted jacket. As the cummerbund is seen as an extension of the trousers, traditionally it is the same colour, i.e. black. However, the Black Tie Guide endorses deep and rich colours as a tasteful way to introduce some colour into an outfit that is otherwise monochromatic . Bright colours, such as those often worn by members of wedding parties, should be avoided and
11800-691: The way they could grab a four-in-hand necktie. Bow ties do not readily droop into places where they would get soiled or where they could, whether accidentally or deliberately, strangle the wearer. Clowns sometimes use an oversized bow tie for comic effect. Classical musicians traditionally perform in white tie or black tie ensembles, of which both designs are bow ties. Bow ties are also associated with weddings , mainly because of their almost universal inclusion in traditional formal evening-wear. Bow ties, or slight variations thereof, have also made their way into women's wear, especially business attire. The 1980s saw professional women, especially in law, banking, and
11918-479: The west lie the extensive Appalachian Highlands. In the Tappan Zee region, the west side of the river has high cliffs produced by an erosion-resistant diabase ; the cliffs range from 400 to 800 feet (120 to 240 m) in height. The Hudson Valley is one physiographic section of the larger Ridge-and-Valley province, which in turn is part of the larger Appalachian physiographic division. The northern portions of
12036-451: The wing collar or waistcoat. Similarly, the shawl lapel is more common in white dinner jackets. In the United Kingdom, the 20th-century etiquette was that white dinner jackets were never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but were reserved for wear abroad. In the 21st century, white dinner jackets are frequently seen at weddings , formal beach events, and high-school proms , in the United States and at some concerts, famously for instance
12154-687: The world's largest brick manufacturing region, with 130 brickyards lining the shores of the Hudson River from Mechanicsville to Haverstraw and employing 8,000 people. At its peak, about 1 billion bricks a year were produced, with many being sent to New York City for use in its construction industry. Tourism became a major industry as early as 1810. With convenient steamboat connections in New York City and numerous attractive hotels in romantic settings, tourism became an important industry. Early guidebooks provided suggestions for travel itineraries. Middle-class people who read James Fenimore Cooper 's novels or saw
12272-662: The world. The New York, West Shore and Buffalo Railway began at Weehawken Terminal and ran up the west shore of the Hudson as a competitor to the merged New York Central and Hudson River Railroad . Construction was slow and was finally completed in 1884; the New York Central purchased the line the next year. During the Industrial Revolution, the Hudson River Valley became a major location for production. The river allowed for fast and easy transport of goods from
12390-646: Was a black or midnight blue Homburg in winter, or straw boater in spring and summer. Fedoras were originally regarded as too informal but have become more common. Top hats were originally worn with black tie, but had been reserved to white tie and morning dress from World War I. In the 1960s, it became optional to wear a hat with black tie, while from the 1970s onwards hats became less common. Decorations and orders : Military, civil, and organizational decorations are usually worn only to full dress events, generally of formal governmental or diplomatic significance. Miniature orders and awards are typically worn on
12508-606: Was also at high levels in the Mohawk River Valley. The Hudson River was a key river during the Revolutionary War . The Hudson's connection to the Mohawk River allowed travelers to get to the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River eventually. In addition, the river's close proximity to Lake George and Lake Champlain would allow the British navy to control the water route from Montreal to New York City. In doing so,
12626-410: Was also once popular, and a lighter topcoat can be worn in summer. Historically, an Inverness coat was also worn. Until the mid-20th century, gloves and scarves were always worn, and are still occasionally seen in grey leather and white silk, respectively. White kid gloves have never been standard with black tie, remaining exclusive to white tie dress. Hat : The 20th-century standard hat for black tie
12744-713: Was chartered the next year as a continuation of the Troy and Greenbush south to New York City, and was completed in 1851. In 1866, the Hudson River Bridge opened over the river between Greenbush and Albany, enabling through traffic between the Hudson River Railroad and the New York Central Railroad west to Buffalo . When the Poughkeepsie Bridge opened in 1889, it became the longest single-span bridge in
12862-558: Was derived from the village of Tuxedo Park in New York State , where it was introduced in 1886 following the example of Europeans. Following the counterculture of the 1960s , black tie has increasingly replaced white tie for more formal settings in the United States, along with cultures influenced by American culture . Traditionally worn only for events after 6 p.m., black tie is less formal than white tie, but more formal than informal or business dress . As semi-formal, black tie
12980-489: Was designed for women, it was different from the normal male dinner suit. The collar was more feminine, as the shape and curve were more subtle. The waistline of the blouse was narrowed to show the body shape, and pants were adjusted to help elongate the leg. It pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women, as well as the female use of power suits and the pantsuit in modern-day society. Some described Saint Laurent's initiative as empowerment of women by giving them
13098-415: Was first settled. Around the 1700s, tenant farming was highly practiced. The farms' main products were grains (predominantly wheat), though hops , maple syrup , vegetables, dairy products, honey, wool, livestock, and tobacco were produced there. The region became the breadbasket of colonial America, given that the surrounding New England and Catskills areas were more mountainous and had rockier soils. In
13216-573: Was formerly a railroad bridge. NY Waterway operates the Haverstraw-Ossining Ferry between Haverstraw in Rockland County and Ossining in Westchester County, as well as ferry service between Newburgh in Orange County and Beacon in Dutchess County. Intercity and commuter bus transit are provided by Rockland Coaches in Rockland County, Short Line in Orange and Rockland Counties, and Leprechaun Lines in Orange and Dutchess Counties. There are also several local bus providers, including
13334-470: Was inhabited by indigenous peoples long before European settlers arrived. The Lenape , Wappinger , and Mahican branches of the Algonquins lived along the river, mostly in peace with the other groups. The lower Hudson River was inhabited by the Lenape. The Lenape people waited for the explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano onshore, traded with Henry Hudson , and sold the island of Manhattan . Further north,
13452-452: Was only by 1888 that polite society accepted its role solely as summer and informal evening substitute, at which point it became very popular. The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons, and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century, the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with
13570-494: Was simply an evening tailcoat substitute, it was worn with all the same accoutrements as the tailcoat, including the trousers. As such, in these early days, black tie, in contrast to formal white tie , was considered informal wear . In the following decades of the Victorian era , the style became known as a dinner jacket: a fashionable, formal alternative for the tailcoat which men of the upper classes wore every evening. Thus it
13688-410: Was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such as stiff fronted shirts. However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation, is still acceptable in the United States. The waistcoat may be made from either the same fabric as the dinner jacket, as is traditional, or the same silk as the jacket's lapels, which
13806-493: Was worn by our ancestors" and "short garments coming down to the waist and made on the model of the military men's jackets". The suit jacket with tailcoat finishes, as is most commonly known, was first described around the same time and often associated with Cowes , a seaside resort in southern England and centre of British yachting that was closely associated with the Prince. It was originally intended for warm weather use but soon spread to informal or stag winter occasions. As it
13924-461: Was worn with the standard accompaniments for the evening tailcoat at the time: matching trousers, white or black waistcoat, white bow tie , white detachable wing-collar formal shirt, and black formal shoes. Lapels were often faced or edged in silk or satin in varying widths. In comparison with a full dress such as a cutaway tailcoat, etiquette guides declared dinner jacket inappropriate for wear in mixed company, meaning together with ladies. During
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