Zari (or jari ) is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional Indian , Bangladeshi and Pakistani garments, especially as brocade in saris etc. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily silk , to make intricate patterns and elaborate designs of embroidery called zardozi . Zari was popularised during the Moghul era; the port of Surat was linked to the Meccan pilgrimage route which served as a major factor for re-introducing this ancient craft in India.
72-607: A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi , an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari , fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs , and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy. Their special characteristics include intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel ,
144-473: A calamity and in a forest ". The same sentiment is more generically expressed in later Sanskrit literature. Śūdraka , the author of Mṛcchakatika set in fifth century BCE says that the Avagaunthaha was not used by women everyday and at every time. He says that a married lady was expected to put on a veil while moving in the public. This may indicate that it was not necessary for unmarried females to put on
216-477: A change of dress. Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar popularised the chiffon sari. She was widowed early in life and followed the convention of abandoning her richly woven Baroda shalus in favour of the unadorned mourning white as per tradition. Characteristically, she transformed her " mourning " clothes into high fashion. She had saris woven in France to her personal specifications, in white chiffon, and introduced
288-411: A golden hue instead of pure gold. The precious metals and copper too became dearer due to huge demand in various modern industries. Thus, a cheap and durable alternative was invented with non-tarnishing properties. Metallic zari came into vogue replacing traditional metals like gold, silver & copper. This non-genuine modern zari is light in weight & more durable than earlier editions. Also, it has
360-646: A hijab with her sari while in Parliament. Sari is the national attire for women in Bangladesh , Although Dhakai Jamdani (hand made sari) is worldwide known and most famous to all women who wear sari but there are also many variety of saris in Bangladesh. There are many regional variations of them in both silk and cotton. There are many regional variations of saris in both silk and cotton. e.g., Dhakai Banarasi sari , Rajshahi silk , Tangail sari , Tant sari , Tassar silk sari, Manipuri sari and Katan sari. The sari
432-647: A large number of silk dyeing units in the trade use chemical dyes, which cause pollution in the Ganges River , a move is on to shift to natural dyes . A research team from the Indian Institute of Technology, Banaras Hindu University (IIT-BHU) used the technique of solvent extraction and enzymatic extraction to develop natural colours from plants, flowers and fruits including accaccia , butea ( palash ), madder, marigold and pomegranate (anar) The increasingly errant and erratic electric power supply, which leads to
504-399: A month and sometimes up to six months to complete. Banarasi saris are mostly worn by Indian women on important occasions such as when attending a wedding and are expected to be complemented by the woman's best jewellery. Ralph Fitch (1583–1591) describes Banaras as a thriving sector of the cotton textile industry. The earliest mention of the brocade and Zari textiles of Banaras is found in
576-460: A popular garment among the middle and upper class for many formal functions. Saris can be seen worn commonly in metropolitan cities such as Karachi and Islamabad and are worn regularly for weddings and other business types of functions. Saris are also worn by many Muslim women in Sindh to show their status or to enhance their beauty. Phulkari , Kota doria , banarasi , Ajrak are the most worn. The sari
648-726: A shirt/blouse and resemble a sarong , as seen in the Burmese longyi ( Burmese : လုံချည် ; MLCTS : lum hkyany ; IPA: [lòʊɰ̃dʑì] ), Filipino malong and tapis , Laotian xout lao ( Lao : ຊຸດລາວ ; IPA: [sut.láːw] ), Laotian and Thai suea pat ( Lao : ເສື້ອປັດ ; pronounced [sɯ̏a.pát] ) and sinh ( Lao : ສິ້ນ , IPA: [sȉn] ; Thai : ซิ่น , RTGS : sin , IPA: [sîn] ), Cambodian sbai ( Khmer : ស្បៃ ) and sampot ( Khmer : សំពត់ , saṃbát , IPA: [sɑmpʊət] ) and Timorese tais . Saris, worn predominantly in
720-523: A single piece of clothing served as both lower garment and head covering, leaving the midriff completely uncovered. Similar styles of the sari are recorded paintings by Raja Ravi Varma in Kerala. Numerous sources say that everyday costume in ancient India until recent times in Kerala consisted of a pleated dhoti or ( sarong ) wrap, combined with a breast band called kūrpāsaka or stanapaṭṭa and occasionally
792-484: A special blouse for the campaign trail which is longer than usual and is tucked in to prevent any midriff showing while waving to the crowds. Stylist Prasad Bidapa has to say, "I think Sonia Gandhi is the country's most stylish politician. But that's because she's inherited the best collection of saris from her mother-in-law. I'm also happy that she supports the Indian handloom industry with her selection." Most female MPs in
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#1732880795825864-408: A string of upright leaves called jhallar at the outer, edge of border is a characteristic of these saris. Other features are gold work, compact weaving, figures with small details, metallic visual effects, pallus, jal (a net like pattern), and mina work. The saris are often part of an Indian bride's trousseau . Depending on the intricacy of its designs and patterns, a sari can take from 15 days to
936-469: A veil. This form of veiling by married women is still prevalent in Hindi-speaking areas, and is known as ghoonghat where the loose end of a sari is pulled over the head to act as a facial veil. Based on sculptures and paintings, tight bodices or cholis are believed to have evolved between the 2nd century BCE to 6th century CE in various regional styles. Early cholis were front covering tied at
1008-495: A wide vocabulary of terms for the veiling used by women, such as Avagunthana (oguntheti/oguṇthikā), meaning cloak-veil, Uttariya meaning shoulder-veil, Mukha-pata meaning face-veil and Sirovas-tra meaning head-veil. In the Pratimānātaka , a play by Bhāsa describes in context of Avagunthana veil that " ladies may be seen without any blame (for the parties concerned) in a religious session, in marriage festivities, during
1080-490: A wrap called uttarīya that could at times be used to cover the upper body or head. The two-piece Kerala mundum neryathum (mundu, a dhoti or sarong, neryath, a shawl, in Malayalam ) is a survival of ancient clothing styles. The one-piece sari in Kerala is derived from neighbouring Tamil Nadu or Deccan during medieval period based on its appearance on various temple murals in medieval Kerala. Early Sanskrit literature has
1152-462: Is a women's garment from the Indian subcontinent . It consists of an un-stitched stretch of woven fabric arranged over the body as a robe , with one end attached to the waist, while the other end rests over one shoulder as a stole , sometimes baring a part of the midriff . It may vary from 4.1 to 8.2 metres (4.5 to 9 yards) in length, and 60 to 120 centimetres (24 to 47 inches) in breadth, and
1224-581: Is a form of ethnic wear in Bangladesh , India , Sri Lanka , Nepal , and Pakistan . There are various names and styles of sari manufacture and draping, the most common being the Nivi style. The sari is worn with a fitted bodice also called a choli ( ravike or kuppasa in southern India, and cholo in Nepal) and a petticoat called ghagra , parkar , or ul-pavadai . It remains fashionable in
1296-413: Is a modernized version of ari and it replaces traditional metals like gold, silver and copper. It is resistant, durable and light in weight. It is non-tarnishing and maintains its lustre for a considerable period of time. Zari is used in various forms such as Zardozi , Kataoki Bel, Mukaish, Tilla or Marori Work, Gota Work, and Kinari Work. Surat in the state of Gujarat on the west coast of India
1368-500: Is called the pallu ; it is the part thrown over the shoulder in the nivi style of draping. In past times, saris were woven of silk or cotton. The rich could afford finely woven, diaphanous silk saris that, according to folklore , could be passed through a finger ring . The poor wore coarsely woven cotton saris. All saris were handwoven and represented a considerable investment of time or money. Simple hand-woven villagers' saris are often decorated with checks or stripes woven into
1440-540: Is done with cottage industry for about 1.2 million people associated directly or indirectly with the handloom silk industry of the region around Varanasi encompassing Gorakhpur , Chandauli , Bhadohi , Jaunpur and Azamgarh districts . In the last few years, a variety of independent, Varanasi-based brands have emerged to revive the Banarasi sari and bring them directly to mainstream consumers, including Ekaya, Tilfi Banaras, Chinaya Banaras, HKV Benaras among others. Over
1512-541: Is embroidery done with coloured silk thread. Zardozi embroidery uses gold and silver thread, and sometimes pearls and precious stones . Cheap modern versions of zardozi use synthetic metallic thread and imitation stones, such as fake pearls and Swarovski crystals. In modern times, saris are increasingly woven on mechanical looms and made of artificial fibres, such as polyester , nylon, or rayon , which do not require starching or ironing . They are printed by machine, or woven in simple patterns made with floats across
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#17328807958251584-439: Is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the midriff. However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form. Ṛta Kapur Chishti , a sari historian and recognised textile scholar, has documented 108 ways of wearing a sari in her book, 'Saris: Tradition and Beyond'. The book documents
1656-557: Is known today known as dupatta and ghoonghat . Likewise, the stanapaṭṭa evolved into the choli by the 1st century CE. The ancient Sanskrit work Kadambari by Banabhatta and ancient Tamil poetry, such as the Silappadhikaram , describes women in exquisite drapery or sari. In ancient India, although women wore saris that bared the midriff, the Dharmasastra writers stated that women should be dressed such that
1728-408: Is made from fine silver or gold thread is drawn from silver or gold alloys, which is flattened by passing it under equal pressure rotating rollers. The flattened silver threads are wound on the base yarn that is usually made of silk. These spools with silk and silver threads are further flattened for electroplating. The threads are then plated with gold by the process of electroplating. The lustre of
1800-422: Is popular form of traditional embroidery used on saris for formal occasions, various other types of traditional folk embroidery such mochi, pakko, kharak, suf, kathi, phulkari and gamthi are also commonly used for both informal and formal occasion. Today, modern fabrics like polyester, georgette and charmeuse are also commonly used. There are more than 80 recorded ways to wear a sari. The most common style
1872-426: Is reserved as the dress of choice for important occasions and events. In 2013, the traditional art of weaving jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity . In 2016, Bangladesh received geographical indication (GI) status for Jamdani sari. Sri Lankan women wear saris in many styles. Two ways of draping the sari are popular and tend to dominate: the Indian style (classic nivi drape) and
1944-479: Is the most commonly worn women's clothing in Nepal where a special style of sari draping is called haku patasihh . The sari is draped around the waist and a shawl is worn covering the upper half of the sari, which is used in place of a pallu . In Pakistan, the saris are still popular and worn on special occasions. The Shalwar kameez , however, is worn throughout the country on a daily basis. The sari nevertheless remains
2016-454: Is the uniform of Biman Bangladesh Airlines and Air India uniform for air hostesses . An air hostess-style sari is draped in similar manner to a traditional sari, but most of the pleats are pinned to keep them in place. Bangladeshi female newsreaders and anchors also drape their sari in this particular style. Saris are worn as uniforms by the female hotel staff of many five-star luxury hotels in India , Sri Lanka , and Bangladesh as
2088-486: Is the uniform of the air hostesses of SriLankan Airlines . During the 1960s, the mini sari known as 'hipster' sari created a wrinkle in Sri Lankan fashion, since it was worn below the navel and barely above the line of prosecution for indecent exposure. The conservative people described the 'hipster' as " an absolute travesty of a beautiful costume almost a desecration " and " a hideous and purposeless garment ". The sari
2160-661: Is the world's largest producer of all types of zari namely threads, cantile, laces, ribbons, borders, trims, fringes, edges, cordonettes, cords, etc. The art of zari making has been inherited from father to son for many centuries. It is recognised as one of the ancient handicrafts by the government of India. Women from different communities & artisans produce zari for weaving, embroidery, crocheting, braiding, etc. Additionally, there are approximately 100,000 child laborers producing Zari in India, sometimes (but not always) under conditions of debt bondage or otherwise unpaid work. Kalabattun
2232-1253: Is traditional form of embroidery used for cholis in this region. In Nepal, choli is known as cholo or chaubandi cholo and is traditionally tied at the front. Red is the most favoured colour for wedding saris , which are the traditional garment choice for brides in Hindu wedding . Women traditionally wore various types of regional handloom saris made of silk, cotton, ikkat, block-print, embroidery and tie-dye textiles. Most sought after brocade silk saris are Banasari, Kanchipuram (Sometimes also Kanchipuram or Kanjivaram ), Gadwal, Paithani, Mysore, Uppada, Bagalpuri, Balchuri, Maheshwari, Chanderi, Mekhela, Ghicha, Narayan pet and Eri etc. are traditionally worn for festive and formal occasions. Silk Ikat and cotton saris known as Patola, Pochampally, Bomkai, Khandua, Sambalpuri, Gadwal, Berhampuri, Bargarh, Jamdani, Tant, Mangalagiri, Guntur, Narayan pet, Chanderi, Maheshwari, Nuapatn, Tussar, Ilkal, Kotpad and Manipuri were worn for both festive and everyday attire. Tie-dyed and block-print saris known as Bandhani, Leheria/Leheriya, Bagru, Ajrakh, Sungudi, Kota Dabu/Dabu print, Bagh and Kalamkari were traditionally worn during monsoon season. Gota Patti
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2304-424: Is worn across the right hip to over the left shoulder, partly baring the midriff. The navel can be revealed or concealed by the wearer by adjusting the pallu , depending on the social setting. The long end of the pallu hanging from the back of the shoulder is often intricately decorated. The pallu may be hanging freely, tucked in at the waist, used to cover the head, or used to cover the neck, by draping it across
2376-474: Is worn as daily wear by Pakistani Hindus , by elderly Muslim women who were used to wearing it in pre-partition India and by some of the new generation who have reintroduced the interest in saris. Black Sari Day, is a celebration of Iqbal Bano a woman who fought in a Black sari in Lahore against Zia. She sang Hum Dekhenge . Although this event is to bring family closer and to enjoy the day of Iqbal Bano. While
2448-535: The Pussycat Dolls – dressed in saris. in 2014, American singer Selena Gomez was seen in a sari for an UNICEF charity event at Nepal. In the United States , the sari has recently become politicised with the digital-movement, "Sari, Not Sorry". Tanya Rawal-Jindia , a gender studies professor at UC Riverside , initiated this anti- xenophobia fashion-campaign on Instagram. While an international image of
2520-530: The 19th century. With the migration of silk weavers from Gujarat during the famine of 1603, it is likely that silk brocade weaving started in Banaras in the seventeenth century and developed in excellence during the 18th and 19th century. During the Mughal period , around the 14th century, weaving of brocades with intricate designs using gold and silver threads became the specialty of Banaras. The traditional Banarasi sari
2592-408: The 6th century BCE. Ancient antariya closely resembled the dhoti wrap in the "fishtail" version which was passed through the legs, covered the legs loosely and then flowed into long, decorative pleats at front of the legs. It further evolved into Bhairnivasani skirt, today known as ghagri and lehenga . Uttariya was a shawl-like veil worn over the shoulder or head. It evolved into what
2664-604: The Chennai-based Geographical Indication Registry of the Government of India , in a move that was supported by United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). There are four main varieties of Banarasi sari, which includes pure silk (Katan), Organza (Kora) with Zari and silk ; Georgette , and Shattir, and according to design process, they are divided into categories like, Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork , Tissue and Butidar Since
2736-420: The Indian subcontinent are usually draped with one end of the cloth fastened around the waist, and the other end placed over the shoulder baring the midriff. Saris are woven with one plain end (the end that is concealed inside the wrap), two long decorative borders running the length of the sari, and a one to three-foot section at the other end which continues and elaborates the length-wise decoration. This end
2808-594: The Indian subcontinent today. The Hindi word sāṛī ( साड़ी ), described in Sanskrit śāṭī which means 'strip of cloth' and शाडी śāḍī or साडी sāḍī in Pali , ಸೀರೆ or sīre in Kannada and which evolved to sāṛī in modern Indian languages. The word śāṭika is mentioned as describing women's dharmic attire in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist literature called Jatakas . This could be equivalent to
2880-503: The Kandyan style (or Osariya in Sinhala). The Kandyan style is generally more popular in the hill country region of Kandy from which the style gets its name. Though local preferences play a role, most women decide on style depending on personal preference or what is perceived to be most flattering for their figure. The traditional Kandyan (Osariya) style consists of a full blouse which covers
2952-528: The Sri Lankan Parliament wear a Kandyan osari. This includes prominent women in politics, the first female premier in the world, Sirimavo Bandaranaike and President Chandrika Bandaranaike Kumaratunga . Contemporary examples include Pavithra Wanniarachchi , the sitting health minister in Cabinet . The adoption of the sari is not exclusive to Sinhalese politicians; Muslim MP Ferial Ashraff combined
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3024-520: The United States during the 1970s. Eugene Novack who ran the New York store, Royal Sari House commented that he had initially been selling mainly to Indian women in the New York area. However, many American business women and housewives soon became his customers, favouring styles resembling western attire such as gowns. He also said that men appeared intrigued by the fragility and the femininity it confers on
3096-597: The back of the sari. This can create an elaborate appearance on the front, while looking ugly on the back. The punchra work is imitated with inexpensive machine-made tassel trim. Fashion designer Shaina NC declared, "I can drape a sari in 54 different styles". Hand-woven, hand-decorated saris are naturally much more expensive than the machine imitations. While the overall market for handweaving has plummeted (leading to much distress among Indian handweavers), hand-woven saris are still popular for weddings and other grand social occasions. The traditional sari made an impact in
3168-413: The back; this style was more common in parts of ancient northern India. This ancient form of bodice or choli is still common in the state of Rajasthan today. Varies styles of decorative traditional embroidery like gota patti, mochi, pakko, kharak, suf, kathi, phulkari and gamthi are done on cholis . In Southern parts of India, choli is known as ravikie which is tied at the front instead of back, kasuti
3240-411: The base fabric in patterns; an ornamented border, an elaborate pallu , and often, small repeated accents in the cloth itself. These accents are called butti or bhutti (spellings vary). For fancy saris, these patterns could be woven with gold or silver thread , which is called zari work. Sometimes the saris were further decorated, after weaving, with various sorts of embroidery. Resham work
3312-452: The cloth. Inexpensive saris were also decorated with block printing using carved wooden blocks and vegetable dyes, or tie-dyeing , known in India as bhandani work. More expensive saris had elaborate geometric, floral, or figurative ornaments or brocades created on the loom , as part of the fabric. Sometimes warp and weft threads were tie-dyed and then woven, creating ikat patterns. Sometimes threads of different colours were woven into
3384-475: The electric powered looms sitting idle for greater parts of the day, has made it difficult for the weavers to complete the saris in short time; consequently their earnings are affected. Also, increasing quantities of look-alike Banarasi saris are flooding the market. These saris are mass-produced in China on massive looms and therefore retail at very low prices. Sari A sari (sometimes also saree or sadi )
3456-485: The final product. Traditionally the processes of dyeing (during the yarn, fabric, or garment stage), warping , sizing, attaching the warp, weft winding and weaving were done by weavers and local specialists around weaving towns and villages. Zari Zari is the main decorative material in most silk saris and ghararas . It is also used in other garments made of silk, like lehengas (skirts), cholis (blouses), kurtas , and dhotis . The etymological root of
3528-509: The following families: The Nivi is the most common style of sari worn today. It originated in the Deccan region. In the Deccan region, the Nivi existed in two styles, a style similar to modern Nivi and the second style worn with front pleats of Nivi tucked in the back. The increased interactions during colonial era saw most women from royal families come out of purdah in the 1900s. This necessitated
3600-572: The gilded threads is further increased by passing them through a brightener. These threads are then wound on a reel. In ancient times, when precious metals were cheaply and easily available, only real zari threads were produced. Due to industrial revolution and invention of electroplating process, imitation techniques came into existence to cut the cost of precious metals. As copper is the most malleable and ductile metal after gold and silver, silver electroplated copper wire replaced pure silver. Various modern colours and chemicals are used to create/impart
3672-484: The lower garment was called ' nivi ' or 'nivi bandha', while the upper body was mostly left bare. The works of Kalidasa mention the kūrpāsaka , a form of tight fitting breast band that simply covered the breasts. It was also sometimes referred to as an uttarāsaṅga or stanapaṭṭa . Poetic references from works like Silappadikaram indicate that during the Sangam period in ancient Tamil Nadu in southern India,
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#17328807958253744-459: The midriff completely and is partially tucked in at the front. However, the modern intermingling of styles has led to most wearers baring the midriff. The final tail of the sari is neatly pleated rather than free-flowing. This is rather similar to the pleated rosette used in the Pin Kosuvam style noted earlier in the article. The Kandyan style is considered the national dress of Sinhalese women. It
3816-429: The midriff region on top of a sari are waist chains . They are sometimes worn as a part of bridal jewellery. Because of the harsh extremes in temperature on the Indian subcontinent, the sari fills a practical role as well as a decorative one. It is not only warming in winter and cooling in summer, but its loose-fitting tailoring is preferred by women who must be free to move as their duties require. For this reason, it
3888-1000: The modern day sari. The term for female bodice , the choli evolved from ancient stanapaṭṭa . Rajatarangini , a tenth-century literary work by Kalhana , states that the choli from the Deccan was introduced under the royal order in Kashmir. The petticoat is called sāyā ( साया ) in Hindi , parkar ( परकर ) in Marathi , ulpavadai ( உள்பாவாடை ) in Tamil ( pavada in other parts of South India: Malayalam : പാവാട , romanized : pāvāḍa , Telugu : పావడ , romanized : pāvaḍa , Kannada : ಪಾವುಡೆ , romanized: pāvuḍe ), sāẏā ( সায়া ) in Bengali and eastern India, and sāya ( සාය ) in Sinhalese . Apart from
3960-448: The modern style sari may have been popularised by airline flight attendants , each region in the Indian subcontinent has developed, over the centuries, its own unique sari style. Following are other well-known varieties, distinct on the basis of fabric, weaving style, or motif, in the Indian subcontinent. Handloom sari weaving is one of India's cottage industries . The handloom weaving process requires several stages in order to produce
4032-482: The national costume. On her first red carpet appearance at the Cannes International Film Festival , she stepped out on the red carpet in a Rohit Bal sari. Many foreign celebrities have worn traditional sari attire designed by Indian fashion designers . American actress Pamela Anderson made a surprise guest appearance on Bigg Boss , the Indian version of Big Brother , dressed in a sari that
4104-407: The navel would never become visible, which may have led to a taboo on navel exposure at some times and places. It is generally accepted that wrapped sari-like garments for lower body and sometimes shawls or scarf like garment called 'uttariya' for upper body, have been worn by Indian women for a long time, and that they have been worn in their current form for hundreds of years. In ancient couture
4176-403: The navel. The pleats are tucked into the waistband of the petticoat. They create a graceful, decorative effect which poets have likened to the petals of a flower. After one more turn around the waist, the loose end is draped over the shoulder. The loose end is called the aanchal , pallu , pallav , seragu , or paita depending on the language. It is draped diagonally in front of the torso. It
4248-429: The right shoulder as well. Some Nivi styles are worn with the pallu draped from the back towards the front, coming from the back over the right shoulder with one corner tucked by the left hip, covering the torso/waist. The Nivi sari was popularised through the paintings of Raja Ravi Varma . In one of his paintings, the Indian subcontinent was shown as a mother wearing a flowing Nivi sari. The ornaments sometimes worn in
4320-526: The sari drapes across fourteen states of Gujarat , Maharashtra , Goa , Karnataka , Kerala , Tamil Nadu , Andhra Pradesh , Odisha , West Bengal , Jharkhand , Bihar , Chhattisgarh , Madhya Pradesh , and Uttar Pradesh . The Sari Series, a non-profit project created in 2017 is a digital anthology documenting India's regional sari drapes providing over 80 short films on how-to-drape the various styles. The French cultural anthropologist and sari researcher Chantal Boulanger categorised sari drapes into
4392-518: The sari is typical traditional wear for women in the Indian subcontinent, clothing worn by women in Southeast Asian countries like Myanmar , Malaysia , Indonesia , the Philippines , Cambodia , Thailand and Laos resemble it, where a long rectangular piece of cloth is draped around the body. These are different from the sari as they are wrapped around the lower-half of body as a skirt, worn with
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#17328807958254464-508: The silk chiffon sari to the royal fashion repertoire. Under colonial rule, the petticoat was adopted, along with Victorian styles of puffed-sleeved blouses, which was commonly seen among the elites in Bombay presidency and Bengal presidency . Nivi drape starts with one end of the sari tucked into the waistband of the petticoat , usually a plain skirt . The cloth is wrapped around the lower body once, then hand-gathered into even pleats below
4536-657: The six identified districts of Uttar Pradesh , that is, Varanasi , Mirzapur , Chandauli , Bhadohi , Jaunpur and Azamgarh districts , can be legally sold under the name of Banaras sari and brocade. Prior to this, in July 2007, nine organizations, Banaras Bunkar Samiti, Human Welfare Association (HWA), joint director industries (eastern zone), director of handlooms and textiles Uttar Pradesh Handloom Fabrics Marketing Cooperative Federation, Eastern UP Exporters Association (EUPEA), Banarasi Vastra Udyog Sangh, Banaras Hath Kargha Vikas Samiti and Adarsh Silk Bunkar Sahkari Samiti,had applied to
4608-403: The sought after properties of resistance to tarnishing and knotting. Imitation zari is made when copper wires are drawn from copper alloys. It then undergoes a similar process, except in this case, they are electroplated with silver and then wound around the base yarn, and reeled. This type of zari is less expensive than pure zari, as silver electroplated copper is more economical. Metallic sari
4680-545: The standard "petticoat", it may also be called "inner skirt" or an inskirt. The history of sari-like drapery can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation , which flourished during 2800–1800 BCE around the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent . Cotton was first cultivated and woven on the Indian subcontinent around the 5th millennium BCE. Dyes used during this period are still in use, particularly indigo , lac , red madder and turmeric . Silk
4752-499: The symbol of Indian , Sri Lankan , and Bangladeshi culture , respectively. Similarly, the female politicians of all three countries wear the sari in a professional manner. Bangladeshi politicians usually wear saris with long sleeve blouse while covering their midriff. Some politicians pair up saris with hijabs or shawls for more coverage. The women of the Nehru–Gandhi family like Indira Gandhi and Sonia Gandhi have worn
4824-529: The wearer. Newcomers to the sari report that it is comfortable to wear, requiring no girdles or stockings and that the flowing garb feels so feminine with unusual grace. The sari has gained its popularity internationally because of the growth of Indian fashion trends globally. Many Bollywood celebrities, like Aishwarya Rai , have worn it at international events representing India's cultural heritage . In 2010, Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone wanted to represent her country at an international event, wearing
4896-473: The word is Persian. Zari is basically a brocade of tinsel thread meant for weaving and embroidery. It is manufactured by winding or wrapping (covering) a flattened metallic strip made from pure gold, silver or slit metallised polyester film, on a core yarn, usually of pure silk, viscose, cotton, nylon, polyester, P.P., mono/multi filament, wire, etc. Nowadays, it can broadly be divided into three types. Real zari, imitation zari, and metallic zari. Real Zari
4968-518: The years, the Banarasi silk handloom industry has been incurring huge losses because of competition from mechanised units producing the Varanasi silk saris at a faster rate and at cheaper cost, another source of competition has been saris made of cheaper synthetic alternatives to silk. In 2009, after two years of wait, weaver associations in Uttar Pradesh, secured Geographical Indication (GI) rights for
5040-533: The ‘Banaras Brocades and saris’. GI is an intellectual property right, which identifies a good as originating in a certain region where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the product is essentially attributable to its geographical origin. As per the GI certificate, Banarasi products fall under four classes (23–26), namely silk brocades, textile goods, silk sari, dress material and silk embroidery. Most importantly this means that no sari or brocade made outside
5112-619: Was specially designed for her by Mumbai-based fashion designer Ashley Rebello. Ashley Judd donned a purple sari at the YouthAIDS Benefit Gala in November 2007 at the Ritz Carlton in Mclean, Virginia. There was an Indian flavour to the red carpet at the annual Fashion Rocks concert in New York, with designer Rocky S walking the ramp along with Jessica, Ashley, Nicole, Kimberly and Melody –
5184-472: Was woven around 2450 BCE and 2000 BCE. The word sari evolved from śāṭikā ( Sanskrit : शाटिका ) is mentioned in early Hindu literature as women's attire. The sari or śāṭikā evolved from a three-piece ensemble comprising the antarīya , the lower garment; the uttarīya ; a veil worn over the shoulder or the head; and the stanapatta , a chestband. This ensemble is mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali literature during
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