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43-493: The founder members of KulttuuriKauppila – textile artist Helena Kaikkonen, visual artist Sanna Koivisto and visual artists, ceramic Antti Ylönen - work in the art centre, where they have their own studios . Krunni Production Ltd. has also a studio in the ateljé house of the art centre. The international Artist-in-Residence programme of KulttuuriKauppila supports and produces international professional art . Every year KulttuuriKauppila chooses about six artists to take part of

86-453: A Jacobean era portrait of Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales by Robert Peake the Elder ( above ). The prince's capotain hat is made of felt using the most basic of textile techniques. His clothing is made of woven cloth, richly embroidered in silk , and his stockings are knitted. He stands on an oriental rug of wool which softens and warms the floor, and heavy curtains both decorate

129-669: A master's workshop than those who took in piecework in their own home. Tasks grew more specialized; by the end of the century, one individual might focus solely on collars and sleeves. The trade was one of the first in England to exhibit labor disputes, with tailors frequently on strike against lengthy working hours, low wages, and the use of laborers outside the workshop such as women and children. The strikes generally failed; some participants were imprisoned or transported to America or Australia. The unrest eventually influenced Parliament to establish rules for wages, hours, and working conditions in

172-452: A plant-based paper sheet that can be cut and sewn just like cloth- ranging in thickness from thin plastic-like materials up to thick leather-like sheets. The garments are "disposable" because they are made entirely of plant based products and are completely biodegradable. Within her project, Lee places a large emphasis on making the clothing look fashionable by using avant-garde style and natural dyes made from fruits because compostable clothing

215-455: A trade club at which they could procure workmen. Sometimes, a skilled journeyman assigned by the call house would be taken on permanently by the master. Master tailors who failed to comply with laws of wages or hours could lose access to the call houses, and journeymen whose work was reported as poor could be removed from the call book. Many tailors became virtually blind from the extensive hours of stitching by hand with only candelight to illumine

258-505: A wool or camel-hair canvas for the body, a horsehair chest piece for the breast area, and a flannel domette for a more masculine pronounced bulk. The shoulders of the British are more heavily padded. The fabrics used by the British are in the range of 9-13 oz due to the colder climate. This style of cut can be credited to Henry Poole & Co , and H. Huntsman & Sons . The British are also credited in creating their ever-so-popular trademark,

301-582: Is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory , there is evidence of tailor shops in Ancient Greece and Rome , as well as tailoring tools such as irons and shears . The profession of tailor in Europe became formalized in the High Middle Ages through

344-542: Is defined by its inner construction. Since Italy lies in southern Europe and has a warm climate, the Italian tailors developed a cut that was light and cooler to coincide with the conditions. What they developed is called the Italian/European cut. This cut is more light, with fabrics ranging from 7-9 oz. This way of doing canvas has a range of 1-2 layers, a linen body canvas, and a light horsehair canvas. The Italian shoulder

387-399: Is more natural, and sometimes has a "shirt sleeve" with a roping head. The cut is also slimmer than the British, with a more casual setting. The tailors credited with these cuts are Brioni and Rubinacci . Bespoke suits created by an Italian tailor are called su misura . The average cost of a su misura suit is between €1,700 and €3,000 , although one might cost more than €5,000 from

430-436: Is not appealing to most shoppers. In addition, there is a possibility to create designs with the plants by tearing or cutting the growing sheet and allowing it to heal to create a pattern made of scars on the textile. The possibilities to use this textile in art installations is incredible because artists would have the ability to create a living art piece, such as Lee does with her clothing. Tailoring A tailor

473-605: Is processed, cotton can be spun into yarn of various thicknesses to be woven or knitted into various different products such as velvet, chambray, corduroy, jersey, flannel, and velour that can be used in clothing tapestries, rugs, and drapes, as shown in the image of the cotton tapestry that was woven in India. Light microscopy , normal transmission electron microscopy, and most recently scanning electron microscopy (SEM) are used to study ancient textile remains to determine what natural fibers were used to create them. Once textiles are found,

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516-480: Is suspected that they were first used in ornamental cloths since 400 B.C. in India where cotton was first grown. Natural fibers have been used for the past 4000 to 5000 years to make cloth, and plant and animal fibers were the only way that clothing and fabrics could be created up until 1885 when the first synthetic fiber was made. Cotton and flax are two of the most common natural fibers that are used today, but historically natural fibers were made of most parts of

559-646: Is very fine and rope when it is very heavy). The yarn is then knotted , looped , braided , or woven to make flexible fabric or cloth , and cloth can be used to make clothing and soft furnishings. All of these items – felt, yarn, fabric, and finished objects – are collectively referred to as textiles . The textile arts also include those techniques which are used to embellish or decorate textiles – dyeing and printing to add color and pattern; embroidery and other types of needlework ; tablet weaving ; and lace -making. Construction methods such as sewing , knitting , crochet , and tailoring , as well as

602-509: The Drape cut , credited to Frederick Scholte who trained the founders of Anderson & Sheppard . An Italian cut suit offers a flattering shape with soft tailoring, aiming for the most attractive appearance for the wearer. A suit jacket in northern Italy will usually have a square shoulder, while in southern Italy, the preference is for a more natural shoulder. Like the British cut, the Italian cut

645-665: The Middle Ages and Renaissance . The Industrial Revolution was shaped largely by innovation in textiles technology: the cotton gin , the spinning jenny , and the power loom mechanized production and led to the Luddite rebellion. The word textile is from Latin texere which means "to weave", "to braid" or "to construct". The simplest textile art is felting , in which animal fibers are matted together using heat and moisture. Most textile arts begin with twisting or spinning and plying fibers to make yarn (called thread when it

688-533: The Romantic period of the nineteenth century, when art came to be seen as "a special faculty of the human mind to be classified with religion and science". This distinction between craft and fine art is applied to the textile arts as well, where the term fiber art or textile art is now used to describe textile-based decorative objects which are not intended for practical use. Natural fibers have been an important aspect of human society since 7000 B.C., and it

731-438: The rock of eye method of cutting: which is a freehand way of drafting a pattern by trusting your eye and experience rather than focusing on numbers. Instead of using pencil to draft the pattern, the rock of eye typically involves chalk to mark. Just as there are various methods of tailoring, there are also styles that differ regionally. This is due to different climates and cultures in the world, causing "house style" cuts of

774-505: The AIR-programme. Applications for the residence are processed twice a year. Every summer KulttuuriKauppila produces a large summer exhibition which is open to the public from June until August. KulttuuriKauppila's first summer exhibition was produced in 2007. Art Centre KulttuuriKauppila organizes ART Ii Biennale of Northern Environmental and Sculpture Art every second year. ART Ii Biennale produces ecologically sustainable artworks to

817-404: The cultivation of plants that are used in textiles first occurred, confirming the previous knowledge that was gained from studying the era in which different textile arts aligned with from a perspective of design. While plant use in textile art is still common today, there are new innovations being developed, such as Suzanne Lee 's art installation " BioCouture ". Lee uses fermentation to create

860-425: The cultural tradition areas of Ii . Art Centre KulttuuriKauppila ART Ii Biennale Textile arts Textile arts are arts and crafts that use plant , animal , or synthetic fibers to construct practical or decorative objects. Textiles have been a fundamental part of human life since the beginning of civilization . The methods and materials used to make them have expanded enormously, while

903-526: The establishment of guilds . Tailors' guilds instituted a system of masters , journeymen , and apprentices . Guild members established rules to limit competition and establish quality standards. In 1244, members of the tailor's guild in Bologna established statutes to govern their profession and required anyone working as a tailor to join the guild. In England, the Statute of Artificers , passed in 1563, included

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946-470: The fibers are teased out using a light microscope and an SEM is used to look for characteristics in the textile that show what plant it is made of. In flax, for example, scientists look for longitudinal striations that show the cells of the plant stem and cross striations and nodes that are specific to flax fibers. Cotton is identified by the twist that occurs in the seed hairs when the fibers are dried to be woven. This knowledge helps us to learn where and when

989-486: The finest tailoring houses. A master tailor can create a suit in approximately 40 hours. The number of tailors in Italy decreases at a rate of 8 percent annually, with fewer than 750 tailors as of 2016. The American cut of tailoring is a mix of the Italian and the British ways. The American cut is more baggy and full, with a natural shoulder that is lightly padded. American tailoring usually involves doing light canvas, where only

1032-471: The fires to heat the pressing-irons, running errands, and matching fabric and trims. Apprentices were also taught the " tailor's posture ", to sit cross-legged on a raised board or bench while they sewed. A tailoring establishment then generally consisted of a well-appointed room in which the master would measure customers. Cutting, sewing, buttonholes, and finishing work were performed in adjoining rooms. In England, there were many negative associations with

1075-500: The functions of textiles have remained the same, there are many functions for textiles. Whether it be clothing or something decorative for the house/shelter. The history of textile arts is also the history of international trade . Tyrian purple dye was an important trade good in the ancient Mediterranean . The Silk Road brought Chinese silk to India , Africa , and Europe , and, conversely, Sogdian silk to China. Tastes for imported luxury fabrics led to sumptuary laws during

1118-418: The height of the leaf that it is serving, with 10 filaments in a bundle serving each leaf on the plant. Each filament is the same thickness, giving it a consistency that is ideal for spinning yarn. The yarn was best used on warping boards or warping reels to create large pieces of cloth that could be dyed and woven into different patterns to create elaborate tapestries and embroideries. One example of how linen

1161-564: The most economical use of the fabric. Alcega illustrated 163 patterns to scale in 23 categories of men's and women's garments. Master tailors used proprietary methods for creating their clothing patterns. Up until approximately 1790, patterns to be used for cutting were considered trade secrets to be exclusively owned by the masters. By the late 18th century, publications that not only printed patterns but also gave directions for cutting and layout were widely available. In addition to patterns and templates, some master tailors and cutters use

1204-458: The most important textile fibers because of its comfort, durability, and absorbency. Cotton fibers are seed hairs formed in a capsule that grows after the plant flowers. The fibers complete their growth cycle and burst to release about 30 seeds that each have between 200 and 7000 seed hairs that are between 22 and 50 millimeters long. About 90% of the seed hairs are cellulose, with the other 10% being wax, pectate, protein, and other minerals. Once it

1247-401: The outside workers for inferior products. Using outside workers also freed masters from the legal constraints that dictated hours and wages. Tailors who worked outside of workshops began to use their wives and family members in manufacturing garments, which increased their production to maximize their incomes. Some tailors would subcontract aspects of the work to laborers. The house of call system

1290-475: The plant, including bark, stem, leaf, fruit, seed hairs, and sap. Flax is believed to be the oldest fiber that was used to create textiles, as it was found in the tombs of mummies from as early as 6500 B.C. The fibers from the flax are taken from the filaments in the stem of the plant, spun together to create long strands, and then woven into long pieces of linen that were used from anything from bandages to clothing and tapestries. Each fiber's length depends on

1333-405: The profession of tailor as one of the trades that could be entered only by serving a term of apprenticeship, typically seven years. A typical tailor shop would have a master, a foreman, several journeymen, and apprentices. The apprentices, often beginning their training as young adolescents and indentured to the master by their parents (for a fee), performed menial tasks such as cleaning, managing

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1376-409: The profession of tailoring. Tailors were often called "snips", "bodkins", "thimbles", "shreds", "stiches" [ sic ], and "geese" (referring to the tailor's "goose" or iron). In William Shakespeare 's plays, a tailor was variously called a "thread", a "thimble", and a "rag". By reputation, tailors were generally presumed to drink to excess and to have effeminate tendencies (likely because of

1419-424: The room and block cold drafts from the window. Goldwork embroidery on the tablecloth and curtains proclaim the status of the home's owner, in the same way that the felted fur hat, sheer linen shirt trimmed with reticella lace, and opulent embroidery on the prince's clothes proclaim his social position. Traditionally the term art was used to refer to any skill or mastery, a concept which altered during

1462-430: The tailoring industry that led to its decline had occurred several decades before the development of the mechanical sewing machine. Tailoring men's jackets by adding underlayers of padding became fashionable in Europe by the 14th century. Over the years, additional areas were padded to provide an understructure that helped the garment lie neatly on the body. By the 19th century, well-tailored garments were carefully fit to

1505-406: The tailoring industry. Tailors were one of the first trades in England to form a labor union. The British census in 1851 identified 152,672 tailors, more than the entire railway industry at the time, and that number increased throughout the century. By then, living and working conditions of many tailors had deteriorated, but the trade was still the fourth largest of London professions. One factor

1548-586: The tools employed ( looms and sewing needles ), techniques employed ( quilting and pleating ) and the objects made ( carpets , kilims , hooked rugs , and coverlets ) all fall under the category of textile arts. From early times, textiles have been used to cover the human body and protect it from the elements; to send social cues to other people; to store, secure, and protect possessions; and to soften, insulate, and decorate living spaces and surfaces. The persistence of ancient textile arts and functions, and their elaboration for decorative effect, can be seen in

1591-574: The trade. The silhouette of a British cut suit is influenced by military tailoring, with a defined waist and shoulders. The target image is that of an upper-class gentleman. The British cut of tailoring can be defined by various ways of inner construction. Since the United Kingdom has a cooler climate than (for example) the Mediterranean, the cut of the British is heavier, and bears a greater military influence. This style of canvassing has 3 layers,

1634-403: The view of sewing as a woman's activity). Tailors were presumed to be physically weak and to have delicate constitutions. It was commonly asserted that their diets consisted of cabbage. In comics, they were portrayed as cuckolds or henpecked husbands. A common saying at the time was "Nine tailors make a man". As with other artisanal trades, tailors relied on the "house of call" or "call houses",

1677-455: The wearer with a more subtly shaped understructure. Even with the advent of modern machines, nearly 75 percent of a custom-tailored suit's stitching is still done by hand. The earliest extant work on cutting by tailors is from Spain in 1580. Juan de Alcega , a Spanish tailor in the 16th century, published Libro de Geometría, practica, y traça ( Book on Geometry, Practice, and Pattern ) which documented methods of laying out patterns to achieve

1720-420: The work. The call for tailoring peaked in the winter, and tailors were often unemployed for several months over the summer. During the 18th century, the profession began to shift toward large-scale and specialized production. A hierarchy of skills resulted, with the most prestigious level reserved for those who cut the cloth. "Mere sewers" ranked below the "cutters". More respect was given to those who worked in

1763-453: Was abandoned. When the Statute of Artificers was repealed in 1814, it abolished the apprenticeship requirement and so tailors could no longer control admission to the trade. Tailor strikes in 1827 and 1834 were largely motivated by opposition to employing women as outworkers. Unlike other industries, in which technological advances contributed to decline of trades, the changes to the work methods in

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1806-405: Was the growing availability and popularity of "slops": cheap ready-made clothing. Another was a shift from the vast majority of tailors being engaged in workshops to most working outside the shops of employers. Master tailors who relied on outside workers saved themselves the costs of lighting and heating, as well as some supplies. Rather than pay for foremen to supervise the work, masters would fine

1849-497: Was used is in the picture of a bandage that a mummy was wrapped in, dated between 305 and 30 B.C. Some of the bandages were painted with hieroglyphs if the person being buried was of importance to the community. Cotton was first used in 5000 B.C. in India and the Middle East, and spread to Europe after they invaded India in 327 B.C. The manufacture and production of cotton spread rapidly in the 18th century, and it quickly became one of

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