An unclimbed mountain is a mountain peak that has not been climbed to the top. Determining which unclimbed peak is highest is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world, surveying and mapping are still unreliable. There are no comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers, and local inhabitants. In some cases, even modern ascents by larger parties have been poorly documented and, with no universally recognized listing, the best that can be achieved in determining the world's highest unclimbed peaks is somewhat speculative. Most sources indicate that Gangkhar Puensum (7,570 metres, 24,840 ft) on the Bhutan–China border is the tallest mountain in the world that has not been fully summited. Gangkhar Puensum has been off limits to climbers since 1994 when Bhutan prohibited all mountaineering above 6,000 m (20,000 ft) due to spiritual/religious beliefs.
19-1459: Legend： 1： K2 , 2： Gasherbrum I, K5 , 3： Broad Peak , 4： Gasherbrum II, K4 , 5： Gasherbrum III, K3a , 6： Gasherbrum IV, K3 , 7： Distaghil Sar , 8： Kunyang Chhish , 9： Masherbrum, K1 , 10： Batura Sar, Batura I , 11： Rakaposhi , 12： Batura II , 13： Kanjut Sar , 14： Saltoro Kangri, K10 , 15： Batura III , 16： Saser Kangri I, K22 , 17： Chogolisa , 18： Shispare , 19： Trivor Sar , 20： Skyang Kangri , 21： Mamostong Kangri, K35 , 22： Saser Kangri II , 23： Saser Kangri III , 24： Pumari Chhish , 25： Passu Sar , 26： Yukshin Gardan Sar , 27： Teram Kangri I , 28： Malubiting , 29： K12 , 30： Sia Kangri , 31： Momhil Sar , 32： Skil Brum , 33： Haramosh Peak , 34： Ghent Kangri , 35： Ultar Sar , 36： Rimo massif , 37： Sherpi Kangri , 38： Yazghil Dome South , 39： Baltoro Kangri , 40： Crown Peak , 41： Baintha Brakk , 42： Yutmaru Sar , 43： K6 , 44： Muztagh Tower , 45： Diran , 46： Apsarasas Kangri I , 47： Rimo III , 48： Gasherbrum V Apsarasas Kangri
38-405: A sacred mountain there are annual pilgrimages to see it, but setting foot on it is forbidden. Additionally, since climbing tall mountains is usually a major undertaking and climbers are attracted to climbing the tallest ones, lower peaks (even if they are very formidable) simply get less attention, and instead the taller peaks are summited again, by parties following a new route, or perhaps during
57-709: A certain mountain is sacred and should remain inviolate. Of those, Mount Kailash , a mountain in the Ngari Prefecture , Tibet Autonomous Region of China, with an altitude of 6,638 m (21,778 ft) is one of the most prominent. It lies in the Kailash Range (Gangdisê Mountains) of the Transhimalaya , in the western part of the Tibetan Plateau. Mount Kailash is considered sacred in four religions: Hinduism , Buddhism , Jainism and Bon . Because of its status as
76-612: A distinct peak. It can be difficult sometimes to determine whether or not a mountain peak has been fully summited. Long before modern mountaineering commenced in the middle of the 19th century, evidence indicates that people did indeed travel up to the summits or near to the summits of major mountain peaks. Archaeological excavations in the Andes have shown that humans traveled up to 6,739 m (22,110 ft) in prehistoric times. Permanent settlements as high as 4,500 m (14,800 ft) were established as far back as 12,000 years ago in
95-552: Is a greater possibility of undocumented ascents, perhaps occurring long ago. As of mid-2014 Sauyr Zhotasy (3,840 m or 12,600 ft, prominence of 3,252 m or 10,669 ft), the high point in the Saur Range on the border between Kazakhstan and China , and Mount Siple (3,110 m or 10,200 ft, prominence of 3,110 m or 10,200 ft) on Siple Island off the coast of Antarctica , have no record of successful ascents. The unclimbed status of each of these peaks
114-679: Is a mountain in the Siachen subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. With an elevation of 7,245 m (23,770 ft) it is the 96th highest mountain in the world . Apsarasas Kangri is located within the broader Kashmir region disputed between India, Pakistan and China. It is situated on the border between the areas controlled by China as part of the Xinjiang autonomous region, and the Siachen Glacier controlled by India as part of Ladakh . Apsarasas
133-482: Is difficult to confirm, although Mount Siple in particular is remote, uninhabited (and without any nearby habitation), and seldom visited. The most recent summiting of a formerly unclimbed most prominent mountain (with a prominence of 12,169 ft, 3,709 m) was on June 25, 2014 when Petter Bjørstad and four others climbed Mount Boising in the Finisterre Range of Papua New Guinea . The following peaks, with
152-494: Is separated from the other two by a saddle just over 6800 m high. Only the western peak (Apsarasas I) appears to have been climbed. The first ascent was made over the west ridge by Yoshio Inagaki, Katsuhisa Yabuta and Takamasa Miyomoto of the Osaka University Mountaineering Club on August 7, 1976. The second ascent was by an Indian Army expedition on September 18, 1980, and another Indian army team achieved
171-572: The Andes. In the Greater Himalaya region, Lhasa , in Tibet, sitting at 3,650 m (11,980 ft) has been permanently occupied since the 7th century and many smaller settlements across the Greater Himalaya thrive at elevations exceeding 4,000 m (13,000 ft). With humans living at high elevations for many millennia, nearby peaks to such settlements may or may not have been summited at some point in
190-561: The area both come into consideration when determining their status. Although objective criteria have been proposed, there is no widely agreed standard. In 1994, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation classified 82 mountain peaks in the Alps whose summits were at least 4,000 m (13,000 ft) above sea level and with at least 30 m (98 ft) of topographic prominence over any adjacent mountain pass or col , as
209-418: The climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 m (20,000 ft) has been prohibited since 1994. The rationale for this prohibition is based on local customs that consider this and similar peaks to be the sacred homes of protective deities and spirits, and the lack of high-altitude rescue resources from any locale closer than India . The prohibition was further expanded in 2003 when mountaineering of any kind
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#1733093904270228-547: The massif known as Kabru (7,318 m or 24,009 ft prominence c. 100 m or 330 ft), Labuche Kang III/East (7,250 m, 23,790 ft) with prominence of 570 m (1,870 ft) and, until August 14, 2024, when it was summitted by Liu Yang and Song Yuancheng, Karjiang (7,221 m or 23,691 ft with a prominence of 895 m or 2,936 ft). Unclimbed candidates with high topographic prominence are by definition independent mountains, but some have relatively modest elevations. With such peaks, there
247-456: The past. However, many regions away from settlements may never have been explored, especially since some high peaks in the Greater Ranges are so remote that they were unknown to local inhabitants until they were sighted by explorers. The world's third-tallest peak, Kangchenjunga , has been summited a number of times, but on the 1955 expedition the first climbers of the peak agreed to honor
266-454: The summit, but turned back to honour King Mahendra 's words, as he had permitted them to climb without stepping foot on the summit itself; Nepal then banned future attempts. The mountain most widely claimed to be the highest unclimbed mountain in the world in terms of elevation is Gangkhar Puensum (7,570 m, 24,840 ft). It is in Bhutan , on or near the border with China . In Bhutan,
285-984: The third ascent in 1988. Apsarasas II and Apsarasas III are listed as " virgin peaks " by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, and the eastern summit counts amongst the highest unclimbed peaks . This Indian location article is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . This article related to a mountain or hill in China is a stub . You can help Misplaced Pages by expanding it . K2">K2 The requested page title contains unsupported characters : ">". Return to Main Page . Virgin peaks Unclimbed mountains are sometimes referred to as " virgin peaks ". Many virgin peaks exist because no one has had access to that mountain due to its geographic isolation or political instability. Some are off limits due to religious beliefs in that country or region which hold that
304-413: The winter when conditions are generally more treacherous. Many mountains, in addition to their highest point or peak, also have subpeaks. There is no universally accepted way of deciding when a subpeak is distinct enough to be classified as a mountain in its own right; therefore, any list of the world's mountains is subject to dispute. The topographic prominence of each apex and the general topography of
323-405: The wishes of locals and not set foot on the topmost part of the mountain. Succeeding mountaineering parties may (or may not) have followed this tradition. Similarly, Nanda Devi has also been climbed but the topmost summit was not ascended and the primary summit is now off limits to climbers. Machapuchare had only one summit attempt back in 1957 when climbers came within 150 m (490 ft) of
342-599: Was disallowed entirely within Bhutan. Gangkhar Puensum will likely remain unclimbed so long as the government of Bhutan prohibits it. It is unclear which is the highest unclimbed non-prohibited mountain. While some recognize only peaks with 100 m (330 ft) of topographical prominence as individual summits, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation uses a 30 m (98 ft) cutoff for determining individual summits. Unclimbed summits include one on
361-401: Was named by Grant Peterkin of the 1908 Workman expedition , from apsara ("fairies") and sas ("place"), thus "place of the fairies". There are at least three main summits of near-equal height, usually labeled I to III from west to east over a distance of 5 km. The eastern summit ( 35°31′14″N 77°11′56″E / 35.52056°N 77.19889°E / 35.52056; 77.19889 )
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